It Started With a Sauce, a Cow, and a Mule: The History of Melvin's BBQ

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JONATHAN BONCEK

Barbecue, an American culinary tradition, has a rich and diverse history, with various regions across the country claiming their own unique styles. In the heart of South Carolina, Melvin’s BBQ stands out as a legendary establishment known for its distinctive mustard-based barbecue sauce and a legacy that dates back to the late 1930s.

THE START OF SOMETHING AMAZING

Melvin’s BBQ traces its roots back to the small town of Orangeburg, South Carolina. It was there that Melvin Bessinger’s father, Joseph Bessinger, first showed him the ropes of becoming a passionate pitmaster. It was also then that young Melvin was taught to make the now celebrated and beloved “Golden Secret BBQ Sauce” that Melvin’s BBQs have become known for. Following years of perfecting his craft for slow-smoked meats—and at the encouragement of his wife—Joe Bessinger “traded the family’s cow and mule plus $50 for a cafe in nearby Holly Hill.” 

Through a series of difficult events, including the Great Depression, the Holly Hill Cafe closed, but was quickly replaced with Eat at Joe’s in 1946, a restaurant co-owned by Joe and Melvin, the latter who had just returned as a decorated WWII hero.

In 1955, Melvin made a decision that would end up impacting the rest of his life, when he closed down Eat at Joe’s to move to the city he had fallen in love with while attending The Citadel Military College. That city was, of course, Charleston, SC.

WELCOME TO CHARLESTON!

Clearly thriving as a restaurateur ran in the veins of the Bessinger family; within the first few years of living in Charleston, Melvin, and his brother Thomas who had joined him in the Holy City, began working for their brother JD at his own restaurant, Piggie Park Restaurant. This sparked a concept between Melvin and Thomas, called Piggie Park Drive-In, which operated between 1961-1971. Sensing a bit of confusion from patrons, Melvin and Thomas rebranded the restaurant to Bessinger’s, ever growing in popularity from locals and tourists alike.

In 1982, Melvin left Bessinger’s in the capable hands of his brother Thomas to open Melvin’s Legendary Barbecue with his son, David, in Mount Pleasant, SC; just a couple of short years later, the James Island sister location was opened.

David played a large role in the expansion of Melvin’s by way of introducing new menu items and bringing back the traditional method of smoking meats over all wood, rather than utilizing gas-assisted pits. His dry rubs and sauces quickly garnered attention, as well, ultimately lining the shelves of grocery stores and specialty shops.

Over time, Melvin’s was crowned “Winner of Best BBQ in Charleston” by notable magazines, including named “Top BBQ places to visit in America” by Southern Living Magazine.

It’s no wonder this humble eatery became the epicenter of barbecue aficionados seeking mouthwatering, slow-cooked delicacies. Patrons were, and continue to be to this day, drawn to the tantalizing aroma of smoke wafting from the pit and the welcoming atmosphere that enveloped the restaurant. Today they offer a full customer experience from dine-in, take out, retail items, and even catering.

THE MAKING OF A LEGENDARY SAUCE

One of the defining features of Melvin’s BBQ is its mustard-based barbecue sauce, a tangy and robust concoction that sets it apart from other regional styles. The Bessinger family proudly lays claim to being the pioneers of this delectable mustard-based sauce, which has become synonymous with their name and the state of South Carolina as a whole.

The sauce is crafted with a careful balance of yellow mustard, vinegar, sugar, and other secret ingredients, resulting in a zesty, golden sauce that complemented the smoky flavors of the slow-cooked meats.

Of course, this isn’t the only sauce that Melvin’s is known for today. Their Southern Red—”a tangy tomato based BBQ sauce that blends the best of vinegar and tomato traditions into one thick, savory sauce”—pairs perfectly with ribs, chicken, fish, and more. It seems obvious by now: these Bessinger’s sure do know what goes into creating something undeniably finger-lickin’.

Melvin’s BBQ stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of barbecue and the power of family traditions. From its humble beginnings in Orangeburg, South Carolina, Melvin’s has grown into an iconic barbecue institution, known for its mustard-based sauce and mouthwatering smoked meats. The Bessinger family’s dedication to preserving their culinary heritage has resulted in a cherished brand that continues to satisfy the palates of barbecue enthusiasts across the Charleston area and beyond.

As they like to say, “nothing beats the original.”