More Than Just Dessert: Coconut Cake in the Lowcountry

In the South, and particularly in the Lowcountry, coconut cake may seem like just another dessert—but in reality, it’s a symbol of history, celebration, and for many people, a keepsake from the generations before them. This towering, snowy-white confection—comprised of soft (often multiple) layers of cake, airy frosting, and fresh or shredded coconut—has become a fixture at family gatherings, church socials, and restaurants across the South.

Of course, coconut cakes vary widely depending onregional styles, cultural influences, and personal recipes, with differences often seen in the cake layers, frosting, and coconut treatment. Traditional Southern coconut cakes, for instance, are typically made with soft, moist layers of vanilla or sponge cake and are generously frosted with a rich, fluffy cream cheese or buttercream frosting, finished with shredded coconut for texture. Caribbean-style coconut cakes may incorporate coconut milk directly into the batter, resulting in a denser, more aromatic cake, sometimes topped with a simple glaze rather than heavy frosting. In Southeast Asia, pandan or ube (purple yam) may be added, infusing unique flavors and vibrant colors. The type of coconut used also varies: fresh grated coconut offers a natural, subtle sweetness, while toasted coconut provides a crunchy, caramelized finish. Some bakers use coconut cream or custard layers to add richness, while others stick to a simpler, more rustic version that highlights the natural sweetness of the coconut itself.

AFRICAN AMERICAN ROOTS AND CULINARY HERITAGE

The earliest coconut cakes in America were made by enslaved people in the South, whose knowledge of how to work with coconuts was passed down from African culinary traditions. Cracking, draining, and grating a coconut is laborious even today, but in the 19th century, it required an extraordinary effort. These cakes, which relied on the aeration of beaten egg whites for lift (since commercial baking powder didn’t yet exist), became an act of devotion, often crafted for celebrations or special occasions.

Malinda Russell, a free woman of color from Tennessee, published an early recipe for “cocoanut” cake in her 1866 cookbook, A Domestic Cookbook. In 1881, Abby Fisher, a former enslaved woman who became a successful businesswoman and author, included a coconut pie recipe in What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking. These early recipes required meticulous work—grating coconut meat by hand, creaming butter with eggs and sugar, and assembling multiple layers without the modern conveniences we take for granted today.

Additionally, The Club From Nowhere,a secret fundraising effort led by Geor- gia Gilmore in Montgomery, Alabama during the Montgomery Bus Boycott, exemplified the power of community and resilience in the fight for civil rights. By selling homemade meals and baked goods, including coconut cakes, Gilmore and her group raised essential funds to support the boycott anonymously, shielding contribu- tors from retaliation.

Her kitchen became a heart of the move- ment, where each cake, pie, and meal symbolized both sustenance and defiance. Coconut cakes, a classic Southern dessert, were particularly special — not just as a comfort food but as a covert contribution to justice. Each slice served as a testament to the strength and creativity of these women, who understood that even the simple act of baking could become a pow- erful tool for change.

A SYMBOL OF CELEBRATION AND HOSPITALITY IN THE LOWCOUNTRY Coconut cakes first gained prominence in Southern homes during the 19th century, especially around Easter and Christmas. Their bright white color, delicate layers, and sweetness embodied purity, abun- dance, and festivity. The coconut cake became a centerpiece at events in Charles- ton, a city known for its rich culinary history.

Historically, offering a homemade coco- nut cake was seen as an act of generosity. The cake’s labor-intensive preparation represented care and hospitality, values that remain central to Southern cooking. Multi-layered cakes like the coconut cake are also reflective of the Southern tenden- cy toward culinary abundance—making more than enough to share with family, friends, and neighbors.

CHARLESTON’S OBSESSION WITH COCONUT CAKE
Clearly, coconut cake has long been a Southern favorite for generations, but
it was Peninsula Grill in downtown Charleston that elevated the dessert to iconic status on Valentine’s Day in 1997. Created by Chef/ Partner Robert Carter, the restaurant introduced its “Ultimate Coconut Cake,” a 12-layer masterpiece filled with coconut cream, fluffy cake, and

coated in toasted coconut and smooth frosting. This luxuri- ous version, with its dramatic height, 13-pound weight, and decadent flavor, quickly became a signature dessert, drawing food lovers from across the country. Since then it has gone on to receive award after award, most notably ‘Best Cakes In America’ from Food Network Channel, being featured on Martha Stewart, and being named Bobby Flay’s “all-time favorite dessert”.

Don’t take our word for it. Oprah—yes, Oprah—once high- lighted the “Ultimate Coconut Cake” saying it is, “striped with fluffy cream cheese icing and enveloped in freshly toasted coconut, this mile-high 12-layer cake ships across the country and serves 16 grateful guests.”

The Peninsula Grill inside the iconic Planters Inn—and
its sister cafe next door, Benne’s—are the only ones to sell THIS coconut cake. But of course, various restaurants have made their own mark on this sugary sensation over the years too; many following the same traditional baking methods, yet with their own unique or family-inspired twists.

PENINSULA GRILL

Take for example the Coconut Cake at Saltwater Cowboys on Shem Creek—featured on the cover of this very issue of Southern Flavor Magazine. Originally made by co-owner Wade Boals’ mother, Carol, this coconut cake became a heartfelt tribute following her passing, just before Saltwater Cowboys opened in 2017. To honor her memory, Wade made her cherished coconut cake recipe the restaurant’s signa- ture dessert.

Other places known for their own versions of coconut cake include Page’s Okra Grill in Mount Pleasant and Nexton; Stack’s Evening Eats in Mount Pleasant; Kudzu in Pawley’s Island, Bakies at I’On in Mount Pleasant, and Kaminsky’s Dessert Cafe in downtown Charleston. Each unique, each delicious.

As you can see, to many this is more than a dessert; it’s a slice of nostal- gia and a reflection of the cultural and culinary diversity that continues to inspire bakers worldwide. Whether layered with delicate sponge and soft buttercream, infused with the tropical aroma of coconut milk, or accented with the crunch of toasted coconut flakes, each version of co- conut cake carries its own story and personal touch, making this classic cake a true celebration of sweetness and heritage.