by Denise K. James

Walk around downtown Athens in autumn and it’s obvious that football is on everyone’s minds. And it’s no wonder—the University of Georgia plays a great game. But what some people don’t know is that Athens offers more than just the Bulldogs, and it’s well worth a weekend adventure. From great food and shopping to music and culture, this growing city in Georgia is a strong contender for your next road trip.

Because hotels fill quickly, especially during football season, you’ll want to book ahead and base your choice of lodging on your plans. For the foolproof selection, Hotel Indigo, located within walking distance of downtown, offers modern rooms and a great lobby bar that doubles as a coffee shop for busy mornings. Book a room at the Rivet House for a more upscale stay off the beaten path, where you can sample Italian cuisine at Osteria Olio and book a massage and other services at the on-site spa. Or opt for a boutique experience at The Athenian, a historic Greek Revival home transformed into an 11-room inn close to downtown.

Before your first full day in Athens, treat yourself to coffee and a delicious breakfast. French toast fanatics will want to sample the famed peach variety at Mama’s Boy—its balanced sweetness and smattering of pecans make it the ultimate Southern treat. For a more local meal, head to the Farm Cart, where you can grab one of their famous fluffy biscuit sandwiches or a grit bowl and dine on the patio. And for a fast latte and pastry, visit Donderos’ Cafe in the Historic Cobbham District, then get started on adventures.

Morning is a good time to explore the cultural side of the city, and Athens delivers on art, history and architecture. Check out the Georgia Museum of Art on the University of Georgia campus, which offers free admission six days a week and permanent and temporary exhibitions in a variety of media. Or step into the South’s storied past and visit one of the city’s historic home museums: The Ware-Lyndon Historic House Museum, The T. R. R. Cobb House, the Taylor-Grady House, and the Church-Waddel-Brumby House, which doubles as the city’s Welcome Center.

While you’re at the Welcome Center, grab a map to Athens’ 17 historic neighborhoods, and take your pick of which ones to explore. There’s Cobbham, also known as the first suburb; Boulevard, which is on the National Register of Historic Places; Five Points, which is full of cafes and shops to duck in and out of; and Normaltown, home to several great restaurants and watering holes.

Shops in Athens cover a spectrum—where else can you find upscale clothing, antiques, and hip spots to scout vinyl records and gifts? Check out the Cheeky Peach, Amelia’s Apparel, Dukes Clothier and Epiphany for women’s clothing and accessories, and send the guys to Dick Ferguson’s Clothing Store, Empire South or Kempt. For secondhand threads, visit Agora Vintage, Uptown Cheapskate, or Cillies.

Lunchtime is a good time to sample some Southern barbecue, and Dawg Gone Good BBQ is conveniently located, not to mention delicious. Family owned and operated, this reasonably priced spot offers plates or sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, chicken, ribs, and sausage, plus a variety of sides and, of course, banana pudding. Craving ‘cue but need more variety to please a crowd? White Tiger adds salads, tacos, and vegetarian options to its barbecue menu. And for a lighter lunch, try Marti’s at Midday or Big City Bread, where you’ll find soups, salads and sandwiches.

Early fall in Georgia is still warm, but fortunately, Athens has a number of ways to stay out of the afternoon heat. Look for your favorite vinyl albums and learn about Athens’ musical legacy at either Wuxtry Records or Low Yo Yo Stuff Records. Head over to Rook & Pawn to enjoy a beer and one of the dozens of board games. Find your next great read at Rec Room Books, visit Ghost Apothecary for gifts and curated items, or unearth local pottery at R. Wood Studio. Take the little ones to Treehouse Kid & Craft, where you can shop for art supplies and trinkets, or indulge in one of the “blind boxes” with surprises inside. For antique lovers, Lexington Vintage, located just a few minutes from downtown Athens, boasts more than 30 independent vendors in one marketplace.

If your trip is in later autumn, take advantage of the foliage and get outdoors for some fresh air. Check out the State Botanical Garden of Georgia along the Middle Oconee River; the Sandy Creek Nature Center, with two trails known for birdwatching; or Ben Burton Park, a wildlife preserve with picnic areas, fishing and river access.

Obviously, a trip to Athens in autumn wouldn’t be complete without football. And whether you scored a set of tickets to watch the Dawgs play at Sanford Stadium or not, there’s plenty of places to get into the spirit. Late afternoon is a fine time for pre-gaming around the city, starting with classic bars like Magnolia’s or the Boar’s Head Lounge. Be warned—on gamedays, students are known to spend a good chunk of the day celebrating, so if you’re not looking for a rowdy bar scene, head over to North Campus, where tailgating is regulated to five hours before game time and the scene is more family friendly. Pick up local beers like Tropicalia IPA and Classic City Lager at Creature Comforts Downtown Taproom and Brewery, and bring a folding chair or blanket.

Dog-lovers in general, and bulldog lovers in particular, will be happy to know that “Boom,” the current UGA mascot, is the 10th Dawg in a long line of white English bulldogs used since 1956. Boom has some rather tall shoes to fill, since his predecessor, Que, was the most winning mascot in history between 2015-2022. Pretty doggone impressive.

When it comes to dinner in Athens, it’s honestly tough to choose. The city has so much fantastic food, from longstanding restaurants to trendy new spots, so your best bet is to follow your cravings. For a truly “Athens” experience, grab a table at the Last Resort, located downtown and serving a variety of Southern dishes like their famous Last Resort Chicken: chicken breast stuffed with a medley of cheeses and topped with walnut-honey drizzle, served with green beans and creamy grits. For a new American menu, Five & Ten’s selection of snacks and small and large plates are crafted with ingredients from local farms and producers.

If you’re in the mood for pho, Pretty Boy offers noodle dishes and sharables galore, plus a stylish bar with cocktails like the Community Garden with shishito gin or the Golden Moon with ginger shochu. Visit ZZ & Simone’s for pizza, pasta and authentic Italian desserts, The National for Mediterranean tapas like marinated olives, salatim with flatbread, olive oil and whipped labneh and Cali N Tito’s for burritos, tacos and Cuban sandwiches.

Music lovers probably know the famous bands associated with Athens, such as Widespread Panic, REM, the Drive-By Truckers, and Neutral Milk Hotel. The perpetually thriving scene means live music almost any weekend. For indie rock fans, the famed 40 Watt Club hosts a mixture of regional and national acts, and Georgia Theatre, another downtown landmark, is a venue for country and rock and has a rooftop bar overlooking the city.

Fancy an Athens nightcap? You can’t go wrong with a downtown bar like Trappeze Pub (with great food too, in case you’re hungry again), The Globe (on the same corner since 1989), The World Famous (a venue for smaller musical acts), Bluesky Bar (it has a rooftop!), Nowhere Bar (another smaller music venue), Manhattan Cafe (perfect for mingling with locals), and The Roadhouse. If you take a rideshare to another neighborhood, visit Bar Bruno, an elegant Five Points wine bar, or The Old Pal in Normaltown, known for its whiskey selection.

Cheers, and go Dawgs.

Come For the Football, Stay For the Fun: Your Ultimate Travel Guide to Autumn in Athens, Georgia